The Ultimate Rabbit Feeding Guide: Hay, Pellets & Greens

The Ultimate Rabbit Feeding Guide: Hay, Pellets & Greens

If you're asking "what is the best thing to feed rabbits?", the short, non-negotiable answer is this: unlimited, high-quality grass hay. Forget the colorful bags of treats at the pet store or the idea of a bowl full of pellets. The cornerstone of a healthy rabbit diet is boring, fibrous, and essential. I've been keeping rabbits for over a decade, and the single biggest mistake I see new owners make is underestimating hay. They treat it like a side dish when it's the main course, the digestive regulator, and the dental plan all rolled into one.

Getting rabbit nutrition wrong doesn't just lead to a picky eater; it leads to expensive vet bills for GI stasis and dental malocclusion. This guide will break down the exact hierarchy of a rabbit's diet, give you specific brands and quantities, and point out the subtle mistakes even experienced owners sometimes make.rabbit diet

The Hay Foundation: Why It's Non-Negotiable

Hay should make up about 80-90% of your rabbit's diet. It's not an exaggeration. Their digestive systems are designed for a near-constant intake of high-fiber material. The fiber keeps everything moving, prevents hairballs from causing blockages, and, crucially, grinds down their ever-growing teeth.best rabbit food

Here’s a breakdown of the main types and when to use them:

Hay Type Best For Notes & Tips
Timothy Hay All adult rabbits. The gold standard. Look for green, fragrant, long-strand hay. Avoid dusty, brown, or stemmy batches. Brands like Oxbow and Small Pet Select are consistently good, but I’ve found fantastic local farm hay that’s cheaper and fresher.
Orchard Grass Rabbits allergic to Timothy, or as a variety. Softer and often more palatable. A great alternative with similar fiber content.
Oat Hay Adding variety and encouraging picky eaters. Has tasty seed heads that rabbits love. Use as a supplement, not the main hay, as it can be lower in fiber.
Alfalfa Hay Only baby rabbits, pregnant/nursing does, or underweight adults. High in calcium and protein. Feeding this to a healthy adult rabbit is a common error that can lead to bladder sludge and obesity.

How Much Hay Do Rabbits Need?

A simple rule: a pile roughly the size of their body every single day. I use a large hay rack, but I also scatter a big handful directly in their litter box (rabbits naturally graze while they poop) and in a cardboard box for foraging. The key is accessibility. If the hay is hard to get to, they'll eat less of it.what to feed rabbits

Pro Tip from the Hay Aisle: Don't just buy the first bag you see. Squeeze it. Good hay should spring back, not crumble to dust. Smell it. It should smell sweet and grassy, like a dry summer meadow, not musty or stale. Bad hay is worse than no hay—it can cause respiratory issues.

Pellets & Greens: The Supporting Cast

This is where most confusion lies. Pellets are a supplement, not a staple. Think of them as a daily vitamin pill, not a meal.

Choosing the Right Pellets

Avoid the colorful mixes with seeds, corn, and dried fruit like the plague. These are junk food and a leading cause of selective feeding (they pick out the treats and leave the healthy bits). You want a plain, uniform, Timothy hay-based pellet.rabbit diet

What to look for on the bag: - Fiber: >18% (the higher, the better) - Protein: 12-14% for adults - Fat:

Brands like Oxbow Essentials or Science Selective Rabbit are reliable. The House Rabbit Society, a fantastic resource, has detailed guidelines on pellet composition that I've always trusted.

How Many Pellets?

For a standard 5-6 lb adult rabbit, you're looking at about 1/4 cup per day. Yes, that's all. For dwarf breeds, even less. Overfeeding pellets is the number one reason rabbits become hay-snubbing, overweight prima donnas.best rabbit food

The Fresh Greens: The Daily Salad

This is the fun part. A daily handful of dark, leafy greens provides moisture, vitamins, and enrichment. Introduce new greens one at a time and in small amounts to avoid upsetting their stomach.

Excellent Daily Greens: Romaine lettuce, green leaf/red leaf lettuce, cilantro, parsley, carrot tops, dandelion greens (untreated!), bok choy, kale (in moderation due to calcium).

Treat Veggies (Feed 1-2 times a week): Carrot (it's a treat, not a daily staple!), bell pepper, broccoli florets, zucchini.

A good salad portion is about 1 packed cup per 2 lbs of body weight. I wash everything, spin it dry (soggy greens can cause issues), and mix a couple of types together.

The No-Go List: Dangerous & Harmful Foods

Some foods are toxic. Others are just terrible for their unique digestion. This list isn't exhaustive, but it covers the major offenders.

Never, Ever Feed: Allium vegetables (onions, garlic, leeks), iceberg lettuce (it's mostly water and can cause diarrhea), potatoes, rhubarb, seeds/pits from fruits, chocolate, candy, yogurt drops (marketed for rabbits but full of sugar and dairy—rabbits are lactose intolerant!), most human cereals or bread.

The Fruit Dilemma: Fruit is pure sugar to a rabbit. A tiny piece of apple (no seeds), banana, or berry is a fine treat once or twice a week. I mean tiny—a thumbnail-sized piece of banana is plenty. More than that and you're asking for an imbalanced cecum and a sugar-addicted bunny.what to feed rabbits

Putting It All Together: A Sample Feeding Schedule

Let's make this concrete. Here’s what a day looks like for my 6-pound rabbit, Mochi:

Morning (7 AM): I refresh his hay rack and litter box hay. He gets his full daily allowance of 1/4 cup of Oxbow pellets in a slow-feeder bowl (slows him down).

Evening (6 PM): This is "salad time." He gets a big mixing bowl with romaine, a few sprigs of cilantro, and a carrot top. The crunching is immensely satisfying to hear. I check his hay and top it off if needed—it should always be available.

Treats: Maybe twice a week, I'll slip him a blueberry or a sliver of apple during our training session. The key is frequency and size.

Water, of course, is available 24/7 from a heavy ceramic bowl (I prefer bowls over bottles as they allow a more natural drinking posture).

Your Rabbit Feeding Questions Answered

My rabbit ignores his hay but goes crazy for pellets. How do I fix this?
This is a habit you need to break gently but firmly. First, immediately reduce the pellet portion by half. Drastic, but necessary. Next, try different hay varieties—orchard grass or oat hay might be more enticing. Place hay in multiple locations, including right next to where they lounge. You can also sprinkle a few pellets or rub a bit of banana on top of the hay to encourage investigation. Be patient; it can take a few days of them being "hungry" for hay before they give in and eat it properly.
Are those "gourmet" treat mixes from the pet store okay for my rabbit?
Almost universally, no. I've yet to find one that isn't packed with sugary, starchy, or seedy components that disrupt gut flora. They're designed to appeal to the human buyer, not meet rabbit nutritional needs. The best treats are a sprig of fresh herb, a piece of a safe vegetable they don't get often, or a single plain, dried flower like a hibiscus petal.
How do I know if my rabbit's diet is causing digestive problems like GI stasis?
The earliest warning sign is a change in poop. Healthy poop is round, firm, and uniform. Small, misshapen, or strung-together poop often means not enough fiber (hay). No poop for 12 hours is a red-alert emergency. Lethargy and a hard, silent stomach (no gurgles) accompany full-blown stasis. A low-hay, high-pellet diet is a direct path to this life-threatening condition. If you see small poops, the first action is to pump them full of hay and cut out all treats and reduce pellets.
Can I give my rabbit human herbs from my kitchen garden?
Absolutely, and it's a fantastic idea. Fresh basil, mint, dill, sage, rosemary, and thyme are all safe and loved by many bunnies. Just ensure they're grown without pesticides. My rabbit goes wild for fresh mint. It's a cheap, healthy way to add variety.
Is there a difference between feeding a dwarf rabbit versus a larger breed?
The main difference is quantity, especially for pellets. Dwarf breeds have faster metabolisms but are prone to obesity. They often need even fewer pellets relative to their size—sometimes just a tablespoon. Their hay and greens intake is proportional. Giant breeds, like Flemish Giants, need more of everything, but the percentage breakdown (80-90% hay) remains the same.

So, what's the best thing to feed rabbits? It's a system, not a single magic food. Unlimited hay is the non-negotiable foundation. Quality pellets are a measured supplement. Fresh greens are the daily joy. And everything else is just occasional trimming. Get this balance right, and you're not just feeding your rabbit; you're building the foundation for a long, healthy, and hoppy life.

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