I got my first rabbit, Thumper, because I thought they were quiet, low-maintenance pets. I was wrong on both counts. What followed was a decade of learning through mistakes, vet visits, and moments of pure joy. Rabbit care isn't just about putting a bunny in a hutch with some carrots. It's about understanding a complex, sensitive prey animal with specific needs that, if missed, lead to big problems. This guide skips the fluffy basics and dives into the real, actionable details that keep rabbits thriving.
What You'll Find in This Guide
The #1 Diet Mistake Everyone Makes (And How to Fix It)
It's the pellets. We see the bag with the cute rabbit picture and think, "That's their food." It's not. That thinking is why so many rabbits face obesity and dental disease. A rabbit's digestive system is built for one thing: constant fermentation of fibrous grass.
The foundation, and I mean 80-90% of their diet, must be unlimited grass hay. Timothy hay, orchard grass, meadow hay—any long-strand grass hay. It wears down their ever-growing teeth and keeps their gut moving. Alfalfa hay is for babies only; it's too rich for adults.
Fresh vegetables come next. A packed cup of leafy greens per 2 lbs of body weight daily. Romaine, kale, cilantro, bok choy. Rotate them. I introduce one new green every few days to watch for soft stools.
Pellets are the vitamin supplement. A scant quarter-cup per day for a standard-sized rabbit is plenty. Look for pellets that are high-fiber (over 18%), plain green, and free of colorful seeds or dried fruit bits. Those "treat mixes" are junk food.
Fruits and carrots? Pure sugar in their world. A thin slice of apple or one blueberry twice a week is a treat, not a staple.
Simple Daily Diet Breakdown for a 5lb Adult Rabbit:
• Hay: A pile bigger than their body, refreshed daily.
• Greens: About 2 packed cups of dark leafy vegetables.
• Pellets: 1/4 cup of plain, high-fiber pellets.
• Water: Always fresh, in both a bowl (better for intake) and a bottle as backup.
Creating a Rabbit Home, Not Just a Cage
The traditional small wire cage sold at pet stores is a prison, not a home. Rabbits need space to run, hop, and explore. They are crepuscular, meaning most active at dawn and dusk, and they need room to express that energy.
Indoor vs. Outdoor: There's Really Only One Safe Choice
I'm firm on this: house rabbits live longer, safer, happier lives. Outdoor hutches expose them to predators (even with locks), extreme temperatures, parasites, and loneliness. An indoor space allows for socialization and close monitoring of their health.
The best setup is a large exercise pen (x-pen) or a thoroughly rabbit-proofed room. Rabbit-proofing means protecting all cords (use plastic tubing), baseboards (plastic guards), and precious furniture. They will chew. It's not naughty; it's a biological need.
The Essential Setup Checklist
- Litter Box: A large cat box. Fill with paper-based litter, then top with hay. Rabbits like to munch and poop at the same time.
- Resting Hide: A cardboard box with two exits (so they don't feel trapped) is perfect.
- Flooring: Avoid slippery hardwood. Use washable rugs, mats, or fleece blankets for traction.
- Toys: Not store-bought plastic. Cardboard tunnels, untreated willow balls, phone books to shred.
Your Weekly 5-Minute Health Check Routine
Rabbits hide illness until they're very sick. A weekly hands-on check catches issues early. Do this during a calm time, with treats ready.
| Check Area | What to Look For | Red Flag |
|---|---|---|
| Eyes & Nose | Clear, bright, no discharge. | Wetness, crusting, dullness. |
| Ears | Clean, pink inside, no wax/debris. | Dark buildup, head tilting, scratching. |
| Teeth | Front incisors aligned, not overgrown. | Drooling, difficulty eating, weight loss. |
| Fur & Skin | Clean, full coat, no flakes or bald spots. | Patches of missing fur, dandruff, parasites. |
| Feet | Fur on bottoms, no sores or redness. | Bare, inflamed patches (sore hocks). |
| Weight | Use a kitchen scale weekly. | Any sudden loss or gain. |
| Droppings | Consistent size, shape, and quantity. | Small, misshapen, or no droppings. |
The silent killer is GI Stasis. It's not a disease but a symptom: the gut slows or stops. Causes include pain, stress, or a poor diet. The signs are subtle at first: fewer poops, smaller poops, less interest in food, a hunched posture. This is an emergency. Have your vet's number and the location of a 24-hour exotics vet saved. Time is critical.
Vet Note: Not all vets treat rabbits. You need an "exotics" or "small mammal" vet. Find one before you have an emergency. Annual check-ups are non-negotiable for vaccinations (like RHDV2) and dental exams.
Understanding Rabbit Behavior: From Binkies to Thumps
They don't bark or meow. Rabbit language is quiet and physical. Misreading it leads to frustration.
A binky—a wild jump and twist in the air—is pure joy. A soft tooth purr (gentle grinding) while being petted means contentment. Loud tooth grinding is a sign of pain.
A sharp thump with a hind leg is an alarm. They're scared or annoyed. Chinning (rubbing their chin on things) is how they mark territory with scent glands.
Building trust takes months, not days. Sit on the floor and let them come to you. Offer treats from your hand. Pet them on the forehead and cheeks, not the back or belly (which is a vulnerable area). Never force a cuddle. Let them dictate the interaction. When a rabbit flops onto their side near you, that's the ultimate sign of trust—they feel safe enough to let their guard down completely.
Your Rabbit Care Questions, Answered
Rabbit care is a commitment, but it's one filled with unique rewards. It's the quiet companionship of a creature that chooses to trust you. It's watching them explore a new cardboard castle. It's the peace of mind knowing you're meeting the needs of a fragile but wonderful life. Start with the hay, provide the space, learn their language, and you'll unlock a truly special relationship.
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